![]() ![]() Sometimes it takes a couple shots to get the light right, but at least in manual mode you know for sure you are adding or subtracting light. Then it's simply a matter of taking a picture, reviewing it in the viewfinder and adjusting up or down. After a few dives it's easy to know based on available light where the initial setting should be. I know it's counter intuitive but to me it's much easier to use in manual mode than auto. At first I tried to use it with it's different Auto settings, then during a photo class in Key Largo the instructor (Larry Gates) got me comfortable using it in manual mode. The dual sensors of the Neon strobe don't help to solve this problem.I use the Inon 2000 with a Canon A620 (thinking of upgrading myself to the G9). There is no need for this sort of function with film cameras, so any slave flashes originally designed for film cameras won't work with most digital cameras - except those where you can go into a menu and turn off the preflash. More recent slave flashes can be set to ignore one or two pre-flashes and to sync up with just the main flash of the camera. Since the slave syncs to the preflash rather than the main flash, it doesn't illuminate the scene during the exposure. You won't see this pre-flash because it is a very small fraction of a second before the main flash, but this preflash will trigger most slave flashes. The problem is that many digital cameras do a tiny "pre-flash" to get an estimate of how much flash and what f-stop will be needed for the correct exposure. Just snap a picture to test it - most likely it will come out dark, as if the slave flash never fired, even if it was triggered by the camera flash and did fire. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |